Ireland's second city is first in every important respect – at least according to the locals, who cheerfully refer to it as the 'real capital of Ireland'. It's a liberal, youthful and cosmopolitan place that was badly hit by economic recession but is now busily reinventing itself with spruced-up streets, revitalised stretches of waterfront, and – seemingly – an artisan coffee bar on every corner. There's a developing hipster scene, but the best of the city is still happily traditional – snug pubs with live-music sessions, restaurants dishing up top-quality local produce, and a genuinely proud welcome from the locals.
The compact city centre is set on an island in the River Lee, surrounded by interesting waterways and packed with grand Georgian avenues, cramped 17th-century alleys and modern masterpieces such as the opera house.
St Patrick's St runs from St Patrick's Bridge on the North Channel of the Lee, through the city's main shopping and commercial area, to the Georgian Grand Parade, which leads to the river's South Channel. North and south of St Patrick's St lie the city's most entertaining quarters: grids of narrow streets crammed with pubs, shops, cafes and restaurants, fed by arguably the best foodie scene in the country.
Curraheen Greyhound Park
If you tire of the pubs, the live music and the theatre, there's always the dogs. Greyhound racing is big in Ireland, particularly with families, and Curraheen is one of the country's poshest stadiums. There are 10 races a night, plus a restaurant, a bar and live music. Curraheen is 5.5km southwest of the centre; buses run from Cork's bus station.
Cyprus Avenue
This midsized venue is probably the best spot in town to see all kinds of gigs, from heartfelt singer-songwriters to excellent bands on their way to fame (or on their way down from it).
